Brand New – Apple Macintosh SE & SE/30 – Universal Replacement Power Supply

Brand New - Apple Macintosh SE & SE/30 - Universal Replacement Power Supply
Brand New - Apple Macintosh SE & SE/30 - Universal Replacement Power Supply
Brand New - Apple Macintosh SE & SE/30 - Universal Replacement Power Supply
Brand New - Apple Macintosh SE & SE/30 - Universal Replacement Power Supply
Brand New - Apple Macintosh SE & SE/30 - Universal Replacement Power Supply
Brand New - Apple Macintosh SE & SE/30 - Universal Replacement Power Supply
Brand New - Apple Macintosh SE & SE/30 - Universal Replacement Power Supply
Brand New - Apple Macintosh SE & SE/30 - Universal Replacement Power Supply
Brand New - Apple Macintosh SE & SE/30 - Universal Replacement Power Supply
Brand New - Apple Macintosh SE & SE/30 - Universal Replacement Power Supply
Brand New - Apple Macintosh SE & SE/30 - Universal Replacement Power Supply
Brand New - Apple Macintosh SE & SE/30 - Universal Replacement Power Supply


$۱۳۴.۹۹ Buy It Now or Best Offer
free,۳۰-Day Returns





Seller Store circuits_electric
(۲۳۱) ۱۰۰.۰%,

Location: Seattle, Washington
Ships to: US,
Item: ۲۶۶۸۹۸۴۶۹۶۵۴

Restocking Fee:No
Return shipping will be paid by:Buyer
All returns accepted:Returns Accepted
Item must be returned within:۳۰ Days
Refund will be given as:Money Back
Compatible Brand:Universal
Apple:Apple
Type:Power Supply
Vintage:Yes

Brand New – Apple Macintosh SE & SE30 – Universal Replacement Power Supply YouTube Installation Video: https://youtu.be/ckjuuIPsBEo?si=gSPphOsv-LH1aFdK This is a direct replacement designed for the Apple Macintosh SE & SE/30 to replace the three known original power supplies: Apple Part Number: 699-50471) Astec AA138002) Sony CR-44 Apple Part Number: 631-5105-A3) Hitachi (‘Made in Singapore’) The replacement PSU is designed to be compatible with all three original versions. The PCB outline, mounting holes, and connectors have been transposed onto a single PCB, to allow for a universal and straightforward installation. The input and output connectors are labelled with their respective names and/or voltages, which allows for quick identification and troubleshooting in the future. The silkscreen also includes additional information regarding the original part numbers / manufacturers and the input / output voltage and current specifications. Fully encapsulated individual power supply modules for each output voltage have been utilized to meet the necessary output current specifications while reducing shock hazards associated with exposed active electronics. There is discussion that the original power supplies where rather limited in their output current capabilities, especially for systems that have been substantially expanded. Many SE/30 owners have reported unsatisfactory voltage drop, especially when heavily loaded. I chose to significantly increase the output current capabilities so ensure ample current under all conditions. Original Apple PSU Specifications: Input: 100-240VAC Output: +5V @ 6A+12V Disk @ 2.1A+12V Sweep @ 1.25A-12V @ 0.5A Replacement PSU Specifications: Input: 100-240VAC Output:+5V @ 10A+12V @ 5A-12V @ 1.25A Note that the original PSU has separate +12V supplies for the Disk and Sweep. This was due to the sweep circuitry requiring tighter load regulation as to not affect the display (flickering, dimming, etc.). The Disk supply has a wider tolerance. It is well tested and understood in the SE and SE/30 that a single high quality +12V supply is more than sufficient to ensure no display artifacts and stable operation. A Few Notes on Installation:There is a small amount of soldering* required for installation. The purchaser will need to either remove and solder the original mains connectors, or solder in the Molex connector provided. The wiring harness has insulation that is a little thicker and shorter than the original. To aid in installation, some amount of hand forming the harness will make it easier to land the connection. I would also recommend installing the connector before mounting the entire PSU assembly to the analog board, as this can help with the tight bend. After the computer / PSU is warmed up, the wires will ‘self-form’ from the heat generated. The wiring harness also includes a rubber grommet preinstalled. This is used to replace the Astec strain relief or the plastic edge protector on the Sony and Hitachi. More details below. While you have the analog board removed from the frame, check the 10 pin connector for the supply voltages for any cracked solder joints. I would recommend checking all the connector solder joints to be prudent. And perhaps it would also be a good time to perform a full recap, but that is at the installers discretion. All power supplies can be tricky to remove and install. Take your time and have patience. When installing the new PSU, be sure to ensure that the PCB is properly inserted into the metal tabs around the perimeter. If the PCB is not sitting flat on the mounting screws, it is because it is not seated properly (or the frame is bent). Double check your work. Astec: The Astec mains wires are soldered directly to the PCB and use spade connectors to attach to the power switch. I found it easiest to pull off the wires from the switch with needle nose pliers so I could have better access to them for removal and installation. I have marked the wire colors on the PCB silkscreen at their respective installation locations. The Astec utilizes a clamping wire strain relief for the harness. Use a pair of pliers to compress and pull this out of the metal frame. As stated earlier in this description, the replacement wiring harness has thicker wire insulation than the original. This prevents the re-use of the clamping strain relief. Preinstalled on the replacement harness is a rubber grommet that can be set in the original metal from cutout to protect the wires from chafing. Sony: The Sony uses an older style mains connector which I was unable to source as a new part. The buyer has two options for installation: 1) Desolder the original connector and install it into the new replacement PCB. 2) Cut the female connector from the mains wires, strip, and solder them directly to the PCB. Note that for the Sony PSU, the White wire is AC/L (HOT) and the Brown is AC/N (Neutral). Make sure to clip the wires protruding through to the bottom of the PCB sufficiently short to ensure there is ample clearance between them and the metal chassis. If the plastic edge protector is missing or broken for the metal wire harness cutout, the preinstalled rubber grommet can be easily placed in that groove to provide wire protection. (I actually find it easier to use the rubber grommet instead of the plastic edge protector – there is a bit more clearance to get things positioned). Hitachi (Made in Singapore): The Hitachi uses a standard Molex connector which is readily available. I include one with every power supply so the buyer doesn’t need to bother themselves with removing the original. *Please note, that if you would like me to install the Molex connector before I ship, please send me a direct message immediately after placing your order. If the plastic edge protector is missing or broken for the metal wire harness cutout, the preinstalled rubber grommet can be easily placed in that groove to provide wire protection. (I actually find it easier to use the rubber grommet instead of the plastic edge protector – there is a bit more clearance to get things positioned). Please feel free to reach out to me with any questions or concerns. ***Always be extra careful when working around AC mains voltages! Do not attempt replacement unless you feel comfortable with the process and take full responsibility for your actions. You alone are liable for any harm or damage incurred during the installation and use of this product, and by purchasing this product, you accept these terms.***

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